West Texas Big Bend NP

Last November we left New Mexico headed for our chosen (by dart board) winter home of Lake Medina Texas. We decided there was no better time to see BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK. After all Bruce had just turned 62 and got his senior citizen lifetime pass for the National Parks, so we might as well use it.

Now Big Bend NP is not a park you stop by on your way to the west coast, east coast, or the gulf coast. It is place where you must WANT to go and MUST plan your trip to get there! This park is in far west Texas, so when you look at a map of Texas, that area down the side where the Rio Grande makes a U-turn and heads NNE...it's right there.


We turned right off US-90 in Marathon TX and
started the 95 mile drive to Rio Grande RV Village, (our desired destination for the next week). Rio Grande is a no hook-up campground with a lot of very nice sites some in the sun and some in the shade. Many are large enough for any RV on the road but some are for tenter's only. All had nice picnic tables and animal resistant food storage boxes. Those boxes are to keep critters like javelina and coyotes out of the tenter's food so you don't see them in the CG. But there is one javelina, you may very well see..."Lonesome George", (picture #1), the unofficial greeter at RGV. The story seems that he is to old to learn new tricks. After they put in the critter resistant boxes, all his buddies left, so now he hangs out hoping for a handout or opportunity.

We downloaded the trike and were ready to begin the exploration of Big Bend NP. Our first trip didn't require much driving as we took a basic birding hike with one of the rangers, Lynn loves bird watching, (and Bruce is picking up some of that enthusiasm). It was fun but it seemed that even the birds down here go somewhere else for the winter.

Next we left the campground and rode over to the parking lot for the trail head for Boquillas Canyon, (pic #2). This canyon makes up the south east border of the park. Once you climb over the hill you descend into the canyon and walk along Rio Grande until the canyon walls block your way.
One of the features you may enjoy while in Boquillas Canyon is Victor the singing boatman, (pic # 3). The story goes that Victor operated the row boat that prior to 9/11 took campers across the Rio for a time of shopping, eating and enjoying the village of Boquillas del Carmen, a small village miles from nowhere who made their living off the visitors. At that time customs didn't care. Now, no tourist can get to the village or big trouble with the border patrol, (except to go all the way around), so Victor brings over walking sticks, painted things and trinkets leaving them with a collection jar for your money (donation) not legal but these people have to live, too. Victor will sing for you and do special request and accept tips in the jar.

The window at the Chisos Basin, (#4), is beautiful. The Chisos Mountains are 35 miles from RGV up hill all the way you climb from 1800 ft to 5300 ft not a steep climb but you can coast back to RGV. On the way you get see the plant life and wild life as the scenery, (and climate), changes from arid desert to mountain meadows. One of the interesting features of the park are some of the plant life unique to Big Bend. From the Chisos basin there are many trails to hike and for those who are so inclined, (not us), get a back country pass from the rangers and spend your time backpacking in the boonies. There is also lodging, a very nice restaurant, and campground in the Basin. (For smaller RV's only! Too many tight turns and narrow passes for our rig!)
On the road to Santa Elena Canyon ,(#5)
Another day trip we took, we headed North across the park to Santa Elena Canyon,(#6) about a 70 mile trike ride from RGV up past the Chisos mountains road and then back down to the Rio Grande. A beautiful ride with many lava created features and sand erosion sculptures. At the Santa Elena trail head there was good parking and picnic area. There also was a nice open area where a stream ran into the Rio Grande which we had to cross to get to the canyon trail. The kids that were there loved this area...lots of sand, gravel and water to play in! The trail itself is a moderate climb and you hike up along side the canyon with an occasional drop down to river level. This canyon defines the Northwest border Santa Elena Canyon of the park.

We loved every sunset we saw. Each were unique. (pic #7) We had some fun hikes and enjoyed the Big Bend Park. There are so many other things to do and see, that we plan to return again in the future.

Some of our favorite things happen right at our campground. We were there in early Nov. during the Veterans Day weekend and had group of men we thought to be hunters camping near us. As we returned home to our RV late one evening, they invited us over for supper of spaghetti. (Very delicious), we found out they were old college buddies from Texas and had been camping together here on the same weekend since the late sixties. We enjoyed their company and Lynn enjoyed not having to fix supper. The next night as we returned from Santa Elena Canyon they invited us over again. This time they had also invited another couple from Alaska. They had prepared a huge Texas sized steak dinner with all the trimmings, (also delicious!) We laughed and talked about our RV lifestyle. These gentlemen were one of many exposures to what we have come to know as true TEXAS HOSPITALITY, and if they should ever read this blog, Thank You again, guys!

Another interesting feature at Rio Grande Village is the beaver pond, (#8). To a northerner, a beaver pond in Big Bend was a little strange but the beaver had build it from a small stream that fed into the Rio Grande. It was a nice quiet place to sit and enjoy a sunset.(#9)


The morning we were preparing to leave, we were sitting at the table eating breakfast, when Lynn spotted a coyote walking by the RV at the road. It appeared he was looking for his breakfast, too.

Lynn jumped up to grab the camera and as she did that, he turned abruptly and started coming directly to our campsite! We had been watching a couple of ground squirrels digging burrows just outside our window for a few days now and was sure he was coming to investigate the mounds. (#10)
Sure enough, he started stalking towards the squirrels, doing his crouching and wiggling his rear end just before he pounced. Lynn snapped the picture as he jumped and caught him in mid-air. (#11) He missed! It was very exciting! A great way to end our week at BIG BEND! We would have loved to stay longer, but they had our spot booked for the next week, so we moved on. They offered to put us somewhere else, but after we get this thing closed up to move, we might as well get on down the road to a new adventure!